Day 5: Pamplona to Zariquiegui (10km)

So today was our rest day, a chance to let our muscles heal a little and gives our brains a bit of a break, so we only walked 10km to this teeny tiny little town called Zariquiegui. It basically consisted of a church (of course), an albergue and a little corner shop, but it was perfect for our needs.

The walk there was hard because it was completely up hill, and we all know how I DO NOT do hills. But knowing it was a short day and that tomorrow we'd be starting our day already be 2/3s of the way up that hill made all the difference.

The walk was so pleasant, despite our aching muscles. 

After we checked into the albergue, we basically spent the day just lazing about, reading, and eating. The woman at the corner shop was so incredibly lovely, and for just €3, she made these giant bocadillos (sandwiches) for us with cheese, avo, tomato, and prosciutto, plus a drink. It truly was a glorious afternoon.

While we were sitting in the church courtyard soaking up the sun and enjoying the greatest bocadillos ever, my bunk buddy from Roncesvalles, John, walked by. Noni called out to him and he stopped and chatted, then decided to also stay and give himself a rest.

I'm going to share John's story here, but I don't actually have his permission to do so. When I see him later today I'll ask if it was ok and if not I'll remove it, but it will be here for a few hours at least. 

John is 70 years old. He first heard about the Camino when he was 24 and was walking through Spain from north to south. He was in Pamplona, running with the bulls, when he met an Irishman on the Camino and decided that one day he'd do it too. Then life and marriage and babies got in the way and there never seemed a good time.

Two years ago, John's wife was diagnosed with cancer. Two weeks before he set off on the Camino, she was given the all-clear. Then two days later his own test results came in and he found out that now he had cancer. So realising that he'd never get a better opportunity, a week and a half later he was off on Camino, having done no training or preparation. He's carrying the same bag that he took on his walk across Spain 40ish years ago. And he's giving it his all. He needs to complete it before the beginning of June which is when he has to be back in England for surgery, so he's giving it his all.

He is amazing. I'm a bit obsessed with him because he's quite curmudgeonly and it turns out I love that in an old man. Reminds me of my nonno, whom I miss everyday.

Anyway, it puts things in perspective for me when everything hurts and I think I just want to take a cab to the next town...