Today's walk was actually quite pleasant, which makes a nice break! Although, for some reason my ankle started the really hurt. I figured I'd just stretch it out and it would sort itself out.
The reason I have included this photo of a van is because it's a particular aspect of Spanish culture we have come across. About a week into our Camino our ears were ASSAULTED by a van driving around constantly beeping his horn. What was his problem? There was no one in his way, was he looking for someone? We were pretty sure they had heard him already, if that was the case.
It turns out, he was looking for people. Customers. He was a baker driving around to let the villagers know that he was there to make his deliveries. Kind of like Mr Whippy, but without the cute tinkling music. Maybe these people should consider this.
Anyway, this was another of those vans, but for dairy products instead.
At Belorado we stopped for lunch, and found a place that did patatas bravas. As Noni was vigorously adding salt to the dish (which she would like me to emphasise was ESSENTIAL), we suddenly realised that the large table of bicigrinos (pilgrims on bicycles) were yelling at us. It turns out they were a group of doctors from Portugal and Noni was single handedly offending them all.
We obviously became big hits with them and they all needed to pose for photos with us, especially this guy, as he said he was the oldest of the group so needed to have an individual photo with us.
We arrived at our Albergue in Tosantos with a little trepidation. It was a paroquial albergue like the one John and Chris stayed at the previous night. We hoped it would be a lovely experience like they had had.
John was already there when we arrived, and we were greeted by Elsie, the hospitelera. She was the most amazing woman we had ever met- half witch, half 60s hippy, she was stunning.
Noni and I were sleeping up in the roof of this old cottage on gym mats.
As part of our stay, one of the villagers took us up the hill to the chapel carved into the mountain. We weren't allowed to take photos inside, but just take my word for it- it was magical. The chapel was built to house the Virgen de la Peña, a statue of the Virgin Mary who is only brought down to the church in town on special feast days, like the assumption.
We were very lucky to have a young French guy translate for us English speaking idiots and explain everything- so he was translating from one second language (Spanish) into another (English), and then apologise for the mistakes he made. Mate, do not apologise, you are amazing.
This guy was awesome. As I keep saying to Noni, if I was ten years younger...
When we got back from the chapel, we all set about getting to work preparing dinner. These paroquial albergues are donativo, meaning that you donate how much you would like to, and the previous night's guests' donations provide the next day's dinner.
We then shared the meal around a large table together, getting to know each other and sharing our stories. We also sang the pilgrim song "Ultreia" together. Well, others sang, Noni and I listened and soaked up the beautiful atmosphere.
"Ultreia" is a word that Noni and I kept coming across but never knew what it meant. We learnt on this night that it used to be the greeting that pilgrims would say to people going towards Santiago. "Ultreia" means "onwards" or "keep going!", and to the pilgrims on their way back to their homes after visiting Santiago, the response would be "E sus eia" meaning "And upwards", or "towards God". It's such a beautiful sentiment, and used to be said as regularly was "Buen Camino" is said now.
After dinner, for those who were interested, there was a prayer circle. It was in a beautiful space up in the roof, and we meditated and sang. Then we read prayers left behind by other pilgrims 21 days previously. If all went accordingly, those pilgrims would be at Santiago that day, so we prayed for them. The prayers were quite intimate and private, and I was surprised by some of the things that were written, knowing that a stranger would read them, but maybe that was some of the reasoning behind it- a stranger knowing your business means nothing, but the sentiment behind a stranger praying for you is lovely.
Despite being an atheist, I took part in the prayers because it was such a wonderful experience. I can still think lovely thoughts for people.
Here's John the next morning with Elsie. He was quite taken by her style. Watch out, Mrs John!!
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